Special treat: Siena’s only five-star hotel (Via Banchi di Sopra 85; 0039 577 56011) has rooms with remarkable frescoese. Doubles from £171. Read a full review http://bit.ly/ycb79b.
Mid-range: Palazzo Ravizza (0039 577 280462; palazzoravizza.it) is an easy walk from various sights. Front-facing rooms are larger, but the rear, garden-view rooms are more romantic. Doubles from £73.
On a budget: The Tre Donzelle (Vicolo Donzelle, off Via Cecco Angiolieri; 0039 577 280358; tredonzelle.com) is basic, but its prices, and position seconds from the Campo.
Have an aperitif on the Campo. All the bars offer the same beautiful prospect, but locals favour Bar Il Palio (Piazza del Campo 47; 0039 577 282055).
Il Carraccio (Via Casato di Sotto 32; 0039 577 41165; closed Monday; mains from £5.60) is a simple, Slow Food-endorsed trattoria.
It’s tempting to head to the Campo for a cappuccino. Resist: you’ll be back there soon enough. Instead, make for Piazza Salimbeni, at the northern end of Banchi di Sopra, Siena’s main artery.
Admire the exterior of the Duomo (0039 577 286300; operaduomo.siena.it; £2.40 or included in the price of an Opa Si Pass, £9.60).
Visit the Museo dell’Opera, full of treasures from the cathedral, including the immense Maestà (1311) masterpiece of Duccio, Siena’s greatest painter.
Piazza del Campo is Europe’s finest medieval square and is the scene of the Palio horse race, Italy’s most dramatic historical spectacle.
Osteria Le Logge (giannibrunelli.it; closed Sunday; mains from £11.30), with creative takes on Tuscan classics. Booking is recommended. Specify the main dining room and don’t accept tables upstairs.
The Palazzo Pubblico has been Siena’s town hall for more than 600 years. Part of it houses the Museo Civico (archivio.comune.siena.it; £6.50) which has two of Italy’s most significant paintings.
If you want to dress up for dinner, try Tre Cristi (Vicolo di Provenzano 1-7; 0039 577 280608; trecristi.com; closed Sunday; pastas from £9.70)
Make for Antica Osteria da Divo ( 0039 577 286054; mains from £16; closed Tuesday), part of which occupies caves from the ancient Etruscan era.
The Pinacoteca Nazionale (0039 577 281161; pinacoteca nazionale.siena.it; £3.20), an exhaustive collection of Sienese paintings from the 12th century onwards.
The Santa Maria Scala (0039 577 534571; santamariadellascala.com; £4.80) is a vast art-filled building which, until 1995, was Siena’s main hospital for 800 years.
